I get more questions about adhesives for collage, mounting work on panels, the difference between gloss and matte medium than any other subject! There’s a big section on my COLLAGE CREATIONS course that goes deeper into adhesive tapes and films, and whilst my book Printmaking for Collage out Autumn ‘26 will have a whole chapter on glues I thought I’d write a blog post…..
The adhesives I mainly use for collage are polymer based such as PVA and acrylic gels or mediums. There are a lot of choices available but it can’t be a little confusing as to what you’re looking for. The rule of thumb is the thinner your paper the thinner your adhesive, if you are adhering a thick paper or canvas use a thick adhesive such as PVA or an acrylic gel.
The archival question comes up frequently when creating art and I am a huge proponent of using materials that are going to be permanent, durable, and chemically stable. That way I am confident they will last a test of time. However it is a complicated topic, particularly in terms of adhesive. Archival can be applied to two aspects of adhesives.
- Many archival glues are designed to be reversible and are water soluble even when dry. This reversibility is particularly important for conservators who may need to remove mends or repairs in the future. However as collagists we want our papers to stay put, so the adhesive needs to be water-resistant.
- We do not want our adhesives to become brittle or yellow over time. This can happen if there are acids in the product. The glues on package tape and masking tape are examples of unstable adhesives that will yellow over time. We all remember as children finding books repaired with brittle yellowing tape. This is caused by the adhesive, not the plastic.
In summary, the adhesives we are seeking to use for collage are acid free with a neutral pH and water-resistant, often called permanent, that do not become brittle with age and are resistant to yellowing.
POLYMERS BASED ADHESIVES
This category includes PVA, and branded adhesives such as Liquitex and Golden mediums and gels.
PVA (Poly Vinyl Alcohol) is a common neutral pH adhesive available in many formulas. It comes as both water soluble and water-resistant, thick and thin.
- Craft PVA is a white glue and a staple in many households and schools. Its versatility and ease of use makes it an adhesive for countless crafting projects however it is not completely water-resistant.
- PVA used for woodwork or picture framing is water resistant, and slightly thicker than craft PVA. It has less water which makes it stronger
- Builders PVA is an exceptionally strong, water-resistant product. It may be too thick for collage. It also sets harder than others, and is less flexible when dry.
Acrylic Mediums and Gels are made from polymers and contain a high proportion of acrylic resins. They will provide a glossy, transparent, water resistant film when dried that will not yellow with age. The difference between them is the viscosity. A gel is thicker than a medium. A soft gel is similar in consistency to PVA, they are both perfect for adhering thick papers or thick card. Heavy gel or Extra heavy gel are thicker, and used for adhering thick cards and canvas but they are too thick for collaging thin papers. All PVA’s and acrylic gels or mediums can be intermixed to adjust consistency. A little water will loosen any product but do not more than 30% as too much will weaken the binders.
GLOSS OR MATTE?
All acrylic gels and mediums are available in gloss or matte finish.Building lots of layers of matte gel or medium can result in fogging. These products contain matting agents like marble or pumice dust and when applied thickly they lose their transparency. You can make your gloss gels and mediums matte by adding a little marble dust, pumice dust or even cornflower.
Many artists like to use matte gels or mediums because they don’t like the shine that a gloss will give particularly when contrasted against a matte paper. However it is the final coat that provides the sheen when it reflects the light. Building your collage with gloss medium and ending with a layer of a matte medium, varnish or cold wax medium such as Dorlands will result in a matte collage.
If I know I’m going to be building a lot of layers, I will use a gloss medium or a PVA and finish my collage with matte products, alternatively If I know I’m just using a couple of layers, for example in my sketchbook, then I will use matte medium. Over time and with experience you will find products that suit your way of working.
CELLULOSE AND STARCH ADHESIVES
The following adhesives are used extensively in conservation. They are all useful for creating collage. However they are not water-resistant and so whilst for a few layers they will adhere your papers well, for thick layers a stronger adhesive is required. Whilst on their own for a few layers they will adhere your papers well. For thicker layers a stronger adhesive is required as you do not want your papers to be reactivated and delaminate as you build your collage.
There are two distinct benefits to using these pastes
- they do not contain plastic
- the slow drying time compared to polymers means they are repositionable
Methylcellulose is a versatile adhesive made from cellulose. It is neutral pH, water reversible and dries clear. Sold as a powder it is readily available and inexpensive. Whilst it is used in wallpaper paste I wouldn’t recommend you use that as it often contains fungicide.
Pure starch derived from rice, wheat or potato starch is used as an adhesive in bookbinding and paper conservation. It is used on paper for paper to paper, paper to board, and paper to leather. Both rice and wheat starch have very good aging properties, and are used in conservation labs around the world but they must be cooked to activate their adhesive properties. Cooked rice and wheat starch pastes and powders are available from conservation suppliers. You can cook your own starch pastes but commercially made ones are not expensive.
- Nori is a popular brand of ready made rice starch paste
- Coccoina made from potato starch paste is scented with almonds, delicious!
- Yes! Paste is starch based, a mix of dextrine and potato starch
MIXING ADHESIVES
In the same way as the polymer based adhesives can be mixed together, we can mix them with the cellulose and starch adhesives. There are distinct benefits.
- Reduce drying time: This will make your papers repositionable which is particularly useful if you are working in a warm climate. With PVA or acrylic medium you may not get sufficient time to lift and replace your papers, stretching out any wrinkles created by moisture, a lower drying time will help
- Reducing viscosity; A thinner adhesive is easier to spread. However adding more than 30% water to PVA or acrylic mediums can weaken their strength. Mixing them with cellulose or starch adhesives maintains it. .
- Reducing your plastic usage: You will be using 40% less plastic by mixing your PVA or acrylic medium with these pastes. Much better for the planet!
To create your own mix follow the instructions to make your cellulose or starch paste and add it to PVA or acrylic medium at an approximately 40/60 ratio. You need more PVA or acrylic to ensure a strong, water-resistant bond.
MY RECIPE
- 100ml Hot water. 1 teaspoon of methyl cellulose powder
- A spoon
- A container for mixing, I use a coffee mug!
- A container for storage.
Add the methyl cellulose powder to the hot water, which has been boiled but is not at boiling point. Using boiled water means you will not need to refrigerate your paste.
Stir rigorously for three minutes. You will notice that it froths and bubbles. Leave to settle for 2hrs or overnight. The bubbles will have disappeared leaving you with a smooth clear gel.
Add the paste to your PVA, acrylic medium or acrylic gel to a 60;40 ratio. I use Golden gloss medium and find the consistency is perfect, anything thicker may require a little water to loosen it.
I hope that helps!
There are TWO mini courses that relate to this blog post only £10 each, and the cost can be discounted from a main course.
I recently came across using nori for pre-preparing paper for Chine-collé. You let it dry on the pieces to be used at some later date, and then when you do the paper for the print being wet reactivates the dried glue of the collage pieces. Solves the worry about excess glue squeezing out the edges and handling wet glue while printing.
Yes Marion all the starch or cellulose pastes are great for that. I can never remember which side I have coated..!
Fantastic info Sally as always! Thankyou for explaining adhesives, it was on my list of things to understand better. Love the recipe and I have been using a rather expensive adhesive because of my concerns regarding plastics and the environment (I’m inspired by nature so no nature no art for me!) so I’ll be making that soon.
Looking forward to your book.
Thanks Helen 😊
Really useful as always, thank you.
Thanks ☺️
Great post. Any advice on using glue sticks for small areas? Any to avoid?
Great question, I tend to avoid them for collage as it’s hard to get the glue to the edge, but they are useful for chine colle and sketchbooks. The benefit is they don’t make your papers buckle as they are dry. Any that go yellow and brittle should be avoided. I like the Seawhite one for economy and the Coccoina for the gorgeous smell, it’s potato starch so acid free.